Connect four

I had a frustrating evening in the water last week, whilst Chris and lars were catching peaches, bombing down the line, I was stuck, never in the right place and utterly knackered. It knocked my cofindence some, though I tried to be philosphical about it, we all have shite days... Then the swell went and I didn't get out again for a week, til last Thursday. It was smallish and perfect at a particular reef break I've never surfed before and it was total magic. I dunno what changed but I was on it and having a brilliant time as the sun set over the Atlantic, it was busy too, most waves were party waves, but this didn't bother me, I just joined in. So I went back the next day and the next.. and today I surfed a heavy beach break, one I'd never gotten out back at before. It was tricky and rocky and closing out but I got a few and then... I turned, I did an actual turn from going left into the peak, turning and surfing right down the line. Oh. My. God. I am utterly delighted. It seems 4 days in a row have paid off, though doubtless I'll have another shite day soon enough. I'd like 4 weeks of swell now please.